Top Trails: Hiking on Maui

Haleakala's Summit Wilderness: High Winds & Other Fascinatingly Dangerous Weather

2012-02-08T08:00:00.000-08:00

Planning on driving up to the summit of Haleakala volcano on Maui anytime soon? Not so fast, tweeted the National Park Service yesterday: "Please use caution when visiting the summit today. We are currently experiencing sustained winds of 40mph." Today the summit has been closed due to high winds and ice. Whoah!

As if the constantly changing weather patterns in the volcano's summit wilderness -- white-out fog, lashing rain, blistering high-altitude sunshine followed by sudden bone-chilling drops in temperature -- weren't enough to contend with. You'd best come prepared to do battle with the elements up here at nearly 10,000ft in elevation.

But that's exactly why hiking and backpacking in the wilderness of Haleakala National Park is such a thrill. A minute is long enough for the clouds to shift and reveal a brand-new vista of rainbow-colored cinder cones. A brief tropical rain shower can send lacy waterfalls cascading down the cliffs. Even driving up the summit road after starting from sea level is its own adventure: the pre-dawn fog covering the narrow ribbon of asphalt can be so soupy that cows grazing on the open range can look like ghostly aliens or disappear from view.

At the summit visitor center, leave your car behind and start trekking down the Sliding Sands Trail [PDF trail guide] into the volcano's erosional valley (erroneously referred to as a crater, even though it wasn't formed by an explosion). Any smart hiker will be carrying at least:

Warm, waterproof layers of clothing, for example, a fleece pullover or hoodie and a Gore-tex shell or plastic poncho, because at this elevation temperatures can drop below freezing (yes, even in Hawaii!)

A flashlight or head lamp in case you get caught trudging back up out of the volcano after dusk, since climbing back up the trail can take twice as long as hiking down

A hiking pole to balance yourself on slick, muddy and rocky trail sections while reducing wear-and-tear on your knees

Plenty of water and sunscreen because the high-altitude sunshine can dehydrate and burn you before you even realize it's happening

A first-aid kit and pocketknife to treat those minor irritations like blisters or skin scraped by a chunk of lava, or to stabilize a more serious injury until you can hike out to get help (no, those nene aren't going to fly out and carry a note to the ranger station for you)

Map, compass and GPS so that even in white-out conditions you can avoid getting lost and wandering off-trail; over lava rocks and cinders, the trail might only be marked by cairns, which can disappear in dusk or fog

Got a tip for hiking safely on Haleakala or any of Hawaii's other awesome volcanoes? Let us know by leaving a comment below. Thanks!

How Not to Be an Idiot While Hiking
NPR Interview: Hiking & Ecotourism in Hawaii

Photo credit: Haleakala National Park (Michael Connolly Jr.)

Saving Hawaiian Monk Seals: 4 Ways You Can Help

2012-01-10T14:24:00.000-08:00

Years ago when I first landed in Hawaii, seeing a Hawaiian monk seal haul out on a beach was a rare event. It was almost unheard of, no matter how far off the beaten path you hiked, surfed or swam. The first place I ever saw a monk seal was in the university-run Waikiki Aquarium. To see one in the wild, I would've had to journey all the way to Papahanaumokuakea National Marine Monument in the remote Northwestern Hawaiian Islands.

Recently, many more of these endangered pinnipeds have been hauling out on beaches where people also go on the main Hawaiian Islands, from Kaena Point State Park on Oahu to Salt Pond Beach Park on Kauai to Hookipa Beach on Maui. That's good news for hikers and wildlife lovers who want to glimpse the seals up close, especially spectators who are respectful enough to leave the resting seals a buffer zone and keep back at least 150ft.

Now the bad news. In the past month, four Hawaiian monk seals have died in what Hawaii's Department of Land & Natural Resources has called "suspicious circumstances," with three deaths on Molokai and the latest on Kauai. Although investigations are ongoing, it seems that these seals were intentionally killed by humans.

Bewilderment and sadness are my first responses. But these tragic events shouldn't be too surprising, because even here on the California coast I've seen northern elephant seals threatened with violence by beach visitors and even shot with pellet guns, despite their protected status as a marine species brought back from the brink of extinction after commercial hunting during the 19th century.

Hawaiian monk seals are the most endangered marine mammals in the Hawaiian Islands, which also makes them the rarest pinnipeds in US waters. According to NOAA, scientists estimate that the total population of Hawaiian monk seals -- already shrinking at an alarming 4% annually -- will dip below 1000 individuals within the next few years. It's time for all of us to pitch in and help!

Do not disturb. Hawaiian monk seals haul out on island beaches to rest. When humans approach them, it not only disturbs their recuperation, but can scare them back into the ocean without enough energy to feed, fend off predators or take care of their pups. Always stand back at least 150ft, turn off the flash on your camera and speak quietly.

Call someone. If you see a monk seal that may be in distress or the victim of a crime, or just want to report a sighting no one else has noticed yet, call the appropriate hotline (for a full list of contact numbers, click here).

Stay informed. Follow Hawaiian monk seal news and share what you've learned with your friends and family. Sign up for email alerts nonprofit organizations such as Na Mea Hulu, and the Hawai'i Wildlife Fund, which you can also find on Facebook and Twitter.

Donate. Economic times are tough right now, but please consider donating toward the Hawaiian monk seal rehabilitation center on the Kona coast of the Big Island, a project coordinated by coastal California's outstanding and heart-warming Marine Mammal Center.

NPR Interview: Hiking and Ecotourism in Hawaii

2011-10-05T12:19:00.000-07:00

As the hot, humid days of October bear down on many island hikers in Hawaii, we can all look forward to the cooling winds and short bursts of tropical rainstorms that will start to cool things off in November. More snowbirds from the US mainland will soon be arriving in the islands for the winter season, and many will be hitting Hawaii's trails, from waterfall hikes and cloud forest rambles and volcano treks.

So now is a great time to remember all those Leave No Trace (LNT) principles for reducing our impact on Hawaii's fragile natural landscapes and rare wildlife while we're hiking. Earlier this year, I talked with Hawaii Public Radio (NPR) about hiking and ecotourism in the islands, and what visitors need to know before they go exploring on foot.

You can take a listen to our conversation archived here. Just fast forward to minute 17:00, please.

Got your own eco-tips for hiking, camping and traveling light in the Hawaiian Islands? Let us know by leaving a comment below. Thanks!

Related posts:
Hawaii NPR: The Conversation, February 16, 2011
Na Ala Hele: Day Use Trail Safety (PDF)
Hidden Hiking Trails in West Maui
Welcome to Top Trails: Hiking on Maui

Photo: West Maui (Sara J. Benson)

Hawaii's Top Trails: All-Time Faves

2011-07-06T19:58:00.000-07:00

Thanks to everyone in the San Francisco Bay Area who showed up in June for my free REI slideshow talks on camping, hiking and eco-travel in Hawaii. Some enthusiastic island hikers have asked me to post a list of all the trails highlighted in my slideshow talk. Here it is!

OAHU
Makapuu Lighthouse, Manoa Falls, Nuuanu Pali Lookout, Kaena Point

KAUAI
Kalalau Trail (Na Pali Coast), Awaawapuhi & Nualolo Trails, Cliff & Canyon Trails, Kukui Trail

HAWAI'I THE BIG ISLAND
Mauna Kea Summit Trail, Mauna Loa Observatory & Summit Trails, Kilauea Iki Trail, Waipio Valley Trail, Muliwai Trail to Waimanu Valley, Pololu Valley Trail

MAUI
Sliding Sands Trail, Halemauu Trail, Skyline Trail, Kaupo Gap Trail, Oheo Gulch, Pipiwai Trail to Waimoku Falls, Twin Falls, Old Kings Hwy, Hoapili Trail, Kealia Pond National Wildlife Refuge, Iao Valley, Olowalu Petroglyphs, Maunalei Arboretum, Honolua & Mahana Ridge Trails, Nakalele Blowhole, Waihee Ridge, Waihee Valley Trail

You can get more information about all of these trails online, including from Na Ala Hele: Hawaii Trail System & Access, Hawaii State Parks and the National Park Service. Of course, everything you need to know about hiking and backpacking the Valley Isle is covered in my new travel guidebook, Top Trails Maui.

Have a favorite Hawaii trail not listed above? Let us know about it by posting a comment below!

Related posts:
Hiking & Backpacking in Hawaii: Free Eco-Travel Slideshow Author Talks at REI Stores
Hidden Hiking Trails in West Maui
How Not to Be an Idiot While Hiking

Photo: West Maui (Sara J. Benson)

Hiking & Backpacking in Hawaii: Free Eco-Travel Slideshow Talks at REI Stores

2011-06-07T17:25:00.000-07:00

Have you been dreaming of finally taking that Hawaii vacation, but are afraid it's too expensive? Or maybe you're concerned about your carbon footprint and the eco-impact of yet another tourist at Hawaii's crowded beach resorts? Then here's the ticket to planning a more sustainable and affordable Hawaii vacation: go camping.

The very first time I visited the Hawaiian Islands, I was a broke 20-year-old backpacker who could barely afford the plane ticket from California. With my travel buddy, I camped my way around Maui, spending my days hiking in cloud forests, atop volcanoes and along deserted beaches on ancient Hawaiian footpaths. We ate guava straight from the tree, and though we had ambitions to do our own spearfishing, we settled for plate lunches and poi from local markets.

Not only was this one of the best trips I ever took, it was also one of the cheapest and most eco-conscious. That's what keeps drawing me back to the islands time and again, to live, work, volunteer and most of all, trek.

If you want to learn more about hiking, backpacking and camping all across the Hawaiian Islands, join me as I take my eco-travel slideshow talk on the road to San Francisco Bay Area REI stores during June and July. All events are free, open to the public (advance sign-ups online recommended; just click the links below) and start at 7:00 p.m. Hope to see everyone there!

June 15: REI San Francisco

June 16: REI Mountain View

June 28: REI Berkeley

June 29: REI Corte Madera

July 25: REI Saratoga

July 26: REI Marina

Photo: Haleakala National Park (Michael Connolly, Jr.)

Welcome to Top Trails: Hiking on Maui!

2011-02-20T17:58:00.000-08:00

Hiking may not be what most people come to Hawaii to do. But don’t let that stop you. Amazing trails crisscross Maui, from meditative coastal beach walks to heady treks high atop a volcano. Hidden in cloud forest, more trails lead to tumbling waterfalls, hidden springs, and groves of bamboo that rustle musically in the Pacific trade winds.

Back down on the coast, you can watch water spout through natural lava-rock blowholes and sea arches, take a dip or snorkel in ocean pools, and encounter deserted beaches to be savored in solitude. You can also wander across lava flows that feel primeval, examine ancient Hawaiian petroglyphs up close, or follow the King’s Highway that Hawaiian royalty once trod.

All this and more awaits on Maui’s hiking trails, most of which are easily accessible day trips. No matter where you base yourself on the island, any of the dozens of trailheads pinpointed in my hiking guide, Top Trails Maui, is at most a couple of hours’ drive away, and often far closer than that. It’s a hikers’ paradise.

Related Posts:
Hidden Hiking Trails in West Maui
How Not to Be an Idiot While Hiking
Our National Parks: So Wild You Should Sue?
Free Online Vacation Planner for Hawaii

Photo: Haleakala National Park (Sara Benson)